How to stop the nagging!
Did you upgrade your AVG free antivirus software recently, and are now being told your free trial is about to expire?
You may have been distracted by the word 'free' in 'free trial' when upgrading and selected the wrong option, i.e. the time limited free trial of the full paid for version.
However all is not lost.
Simply go to Control Panel and select 'Change or Delete Programs'. From the list it presents, select AVG 2013 and then select the 'change' option.
An AVG installation configuration screen will appear, and one of the options has a button marked 'Downgrade'. This option will have the effect of downgrading the installation to the free version of AVG 2013, not to the previous version you had before you upgraded in the first place!
Select this and follow the instructions.
If during this process Windows pops up a message saying the firewall is disabled, you can follow that message and enable Windows firewall (so that takes over from AVG firewall)
When invited to reboot, do so, and all is done.
Tuesday 16 October 2012
Friday 21 September 2012
I am the Walrus decoded
I am the Walrus
The lyrics of this song were never a mystery to me when I
thought about it, at the time of the original debate going on back in the 60’s.
However back then, I never gave it much thought, as I was sure I would not be
alone in my thinking.
Only now, with the advent of the internet and powerful
search engines, is it possible to get an idea about how widespread specific knowledge
is, and having done much searching I can’t find any reference to anyone else
have the same basic interpretation as mine.
Which can be both disturbing and rewarding. Am I so out of
touch that no one my shares view? Or is my view correct and I am the only one
who has it?
The only way to put the nagging thoughts to bed is to share
my conclusions, which to me are so self- evidently true!
Maybe there is another person or two out there that is still
searching for the true meaning, and will,
courtesy of Google, stumble across this little write up. If so, and my
conclusions make sense, please feel free to reference it in any public comment
you make about it.
The very first line says it all really.
What is an eggman? It is the male component of a fertilised
egg. i.e. a spermatozoon. Biology tells us that there are some several 100
million spermatozoa in a typical human male ejaculation. It also tells us that
usually only one actually fertilises the egg, as the egg immediately puts
up a chemical barrier to any further interaction.
“I am the eggman”.
The eggman must be the one sperm that actually succeeded in fertilising the
egg. The one among many.
So how can an eggman be a Walrus? Well it has to be the
eggman, not any eggman, the one that actually went on, in combination with an
egg to start a new life as a human. I believe the Walrus is what some liken the
image of an old man to, i.e. bald head and whiskers. (And vice versa, actually). So the eggman at the end of its life becomes
and old man i.e. Walrus. The eggman is destined to become a Walrus. Well in a
male centric world it is.
It is known that the lyrics were written while under the
influence of hypnotic or hallucinogenic drugs. The distortions of perception
would apply to senses other than sound and colour, for instance size and shape.
“I am he as you
are he as you are me and we are all together”
therefore is written from the perspective of a very small sperm amongst a swarm
of them.
“See how they
run like pigs from a gun, see how they fly”
is probably a description of
ejaculation.
The only other line that can be clearly decoded in this theme, is “Semolina pilchard, climbing up the
Eiffel tower”.
Forget about
drug busting policemen, and other such weird theories.
Knowing what
semolina is doesn’t help. You had to be served it, as you might have been, some
time before the sixties. In your dish you would have seen a white runny creamy
substance. It had quite a bland taste so as a treat it was enhanced by a small
dollop of jam. It was a good quick and
cheap way of filling up hungry young mouths. In the substance you could see
small grains of a uniform size. I
believe this to be allegorically related to semen. Both in appearance and name.
Pilchards, otherwise known as sardines are small fish and
found in huge shoals, and can only be interpreted as spermatozoa in the
ejaculate.
So why would ejaculate be climbing up the Eiffel tower?
This is just more imagery on a different scale. Just look at the Eiffel tower - it actually isn’t that much of a stretch of the imagination, to see it morph
into a female figure, legs wide apart, wearing fishnet stockings, attracting an
eggman like a magnet.
That’s it really. Other lines are just padding, red
herrings, or other sexual references.
Oh, and did I mention goo is a term for semen? "goo goo g'joob g'goo goo g'joob".
Obvious really!
Oh, and did I mention goo is a term for semen? "goo goo g'joob g'goo goo g'joob".
Obvious really!
Sunday 16 September 2012
Washing Machine Woes
Complaints about excessive vibration when spinning.
Noticed the door seal was distorted, and also found dosing ball in the folds of the seal. Ordered new seal as I could not get the existing one to sit straight. Suspect the dosing ball had damaged the seal. Also the old one had become a bit grubby.
Continued to use the machine but vibration hadn't lessened. Noticed that although there wasn't any noticeable play in the drum, there was a bit of grinding noise when rotating it, so prepared to get new bearings. The machine is about 4 years old now, but I had to replace the drum bearings in its first year. I guess warranty would have covered it, but it is quite an easy job on these modern machines.
Went to fit them, but immediately found that the primary trouble was a broken spring on the tub suspension, causing the tub to sag. This was the explanation for the distortion of the door seal.
On further dismantling came to the conclusion that the drum bearing was fine. Definitely running smooth and no evidence of looseness.
So returned the unopened bearing kit and obtained a new spring, and rebuilt machine. When I put the drive belt in place I was immediately aware of the grinding noise again. I thought then that the drum bearing was being noisy when under the tension of the drive belt, but on slipping the belt off again it was obvious the noise was coming from the motor bearing.
However the motor, despite making the noise, seemed to spin fairly freely. I decided that although the motor should be replaced, it might be an expensive mistake if the drive electronics were also faulty. (There was concern because the machine actually blew the plug fuse, which was the event that made me roll up my sleeves to sort out the problems.) So continued the rebuild and put on a test wash. This completed OK, even with 1600 rpm spins, albeit with excessive noise coming from the motor.
So now the hunt is on for a new motor. Having tried my local supplier who had no stock, I reverted to my usual online supplier. Pleased to find the required item available for delivery the next day, with not unreasonable extra charge for next day delivery. I can think about something else now while I await its arrival.
Next day comes, and a phone call from the supplier saying they had a problem in the warehouse, but the item would definitely be delivered tomorrow. Well at least I know I don't have to wait in for the delivery today. Meanwhile the dirty laundry piles up.
The new motor finally arrives. A few minutes to fit it, and then an hour or so to fully test. Finally all is well except there is a hint of a worrying squeak when the drum passes though one position. Are the drum bearings showing signs of old age?
Well a few more weeks gone by, and all is well. Backlog cleared. Job done, until the next time!
Noticed the door seal was distorted, and also found dosing ball in the folds of the seal. Ordered new seal as I could not get the existing one to sit straight. Suspect the dosing ball had damaged the seal. Also the old one had become a bit grubby.
Continued to use the machine but vibration hadn't lessened. Noticed that although there wasn't any noticeable play in the drum, there was a bit of grinding noise when rotating it, so prepared to get new bearings. The machine is about 4 years old now, but I had to replace the drum bearings in its first year. I guess warranty would have covered it, but it is quite an easy job on these modern machines.
Went to fit them, but immediately found that the primary trouble was a broken spring on the tub suspension, causing the tub to sag. This was the explanation for the distortion of the door seal.
On further dismantling came to the conclusion that the drum bearing was fine. Definitely running smooth and no evidence of looseness.
So returned the unopened bearing kit and obtained a new spring, and rebuilt machine. When I put the drive belt in place I was immediately aware of the grinding noise again. I thought then that the drum bearing was being noisy when under the tension of the drive belt, but on slipping the belt off again it was obvious the noise was coming from the motor bearing.
However the motor, despite making the noise, seemed to spin fairly freely. I decided that although the motor should be replaced, it might be an expensive mistake if the drive electronics were also faulty. (There was concern because the machine actually blew the plug fuse, which was the event that made me roll up my sleeves to sort out the problems.) So continued the rebuild and put on a test wash. This completed OK, even with 1600 rpm spins, albeit with excessive noise coming from the motor.
So now the hunt is on for a new motor. Having tried my local supplier who had no stock, I reverted to my usual online supplier. Pleased to find the required item available for delivery the next day, with not unreasonable extra charge for next day delivery. I can think about something else now while I await its arrival.
Next day comes, and a phone call from the supplier saying they had a problem in the warehouse, but the item would definitely be delivered tomorrow. Well at least I know I don't have to wait in for the delivery today. Meanwhile the dirty laundry piles up.
The new motor finally arrives. A few minutes to fit it, and then an hour or so to fully test. Finally all is well except there is a hint of a worrying squeak when the drum passes though one position. Are the drum bearings showing signs of old age?
Well a few more weeks gone by, and all is well. Backlog cleared. Job done, until the next time!
Wednesday 12 September 2012
Plumbing tips
I am soldering up some pipes as part of a bathroom revamp. When you don't do that kind of thing too often there are a few detail things that are worth knowing about before you start.
In principle, the job is easy. Use solder ring connectors. Clean the pipe ends. Apply flux. Join the bits together. Heat with blow torch. Job done.
Except, there are always points to watch that, if you don't, will trip you up.
First of all, you must get your pipe cut to the correct lengths. Obvious really, but practicalities get in the way of the simple vision you might have of measure, mark and cut.
Get an indelible marker. A sharpie is your friend. Inevitably you are going to be running the pipes around walls and floors that are real rather than being geometrically perfect, so always measure in situ where possible. i.e. place the pipe you are going to use in position and mark it there. Warning, don't go overboard with the marker, as it can contaminate the joint and it will leak.
Of course we all want the pipes, even if they are hidden, to run in parallel with other pipes and room features, and the only sure way is to in effect create a jig in situ. Therefore fit pipe clips to the walls first to hold the pipe in position while measuring. If you are fitting pipes in multiples e.g. a pair (flow/return or hot/cold) use dual pipe clips to hold the pipes together with exact spacing while measuring up.
When assembling the various pipes and joints for a trial fitting, use pvc tape to hold the pipe fully home in the fitting. This will prevent erroneous measurements being made.
Don't put up with a worn cutters. A lot of cutters have replaceable cutting wheels. This is a good feature to look for when buying. When cutting a pipe you want to be concentrating on the accuracy of the cut rather than fighting a cutter that is worn or even broken. The cutter binds because it is blunt, or the pipe is not perfectly round, or the partial cut is not uniformly deep, you find you are applying extra force to turn it. In turn this can increase the risk that some of the force is directed sideways and the tool slipping off or a part oft he cutting edge breaking off.
If you have a lot of cuts to make, the effort to make each one should be minimised by using an efficient tool and mastering a good technique. You can find this out yourself, as long as you are observant, focus on continual improvement and not settling for second best.
At all costs keep things tidy as you work. For short lengths of pipe I dip the end in the flux tub and rotate it, making sure I only coat the outside of the pipe. For longer lengths I get some flux on piece of toilet paper and wipe that on the pipe, using the paper just once. Keep the discarded paper in a bag and away from naked flame.
The main focus of attention should be complete and even coverage of the pipe end to the depth of the solder ring fitting, and the avoidance of dust or grit. Clearly the flux paste can easily pick up dirt, and the main consequence is that the pipe becomes a tight fit in the fitting, to the extent that it wont go all the way home.
As a precaution it is worth making a mark on the pipe where the fitting comes up to when the pipe is fully home, as this will provide a quick visual check right up to the point when the solder is cooling after making the joint.
Ideally use a blowtorch with a deadman trigger, so if you are working in a very tight situation where you might bump into something and knock it from you hand, or somewhere where you might drop the torch in an inaccessible location it will extinguish as soon as it leaves you hand.
In principle, the job is easy. Use solder ring connectors. Clean the pipe ends. Apply flux. Join the bits together. Heat with blow torch. Job done.
Except, there are always points to watch that, if you don't, will trip you up.
First of all, you must get your pipe cut to the correct lengths. Obvious really, but practicalities get in the way of the simple vision you might have of measure, mark and cut.
Get an indelible marker. A sharpie is your friend. Inevitably you are going to be running the pipes around walls and floors that are real rather than being geometrically perfect, so always measure in situ where possible. i.e. place the pipe you are going to use in position and mark it there. Warning, don't go overboard with the marker, as it can contaminate the joint and it will leak.
Of course we all want the pipes, even if they are hidden, to run in parallel with other pipes and room features, and the only sure way is to in effect create a jig in situ. Therefore fit pipe clips to the walls first to hold the pipe in position while measuring. If you are fitting pipes in multiples e.g. a pair (flow/return or hot/cold) use dual pipe clips to hold the pipes together with exact spacing while measuring up.
When assembling the various pipes and joints for a trial fitting, use pvc tape to hold the pipe fully home in the fitting. This will prevent erroneous measurements being made.
Don't put up with a worn cutters. A lot of cutters have replaceable cutting wheels. This is a good feature to look for when buying. When cutting a pipe you want to be concentrating on the accuracy of the cut rather than fighting a cutter that is worn or even broken. The cutter binds because it is blunt, or the pipe is not perfectly round, or the partial cut is not uniformly deep, you find you are applying extra force to turn it. In turn this can increase the risk that some of the force is directed sideways and the tool slipping off or a part oft he cutting edge breaking off.
If you have a lot of cuts to make, the effort to make each one should be minimised by using an efficient tool and mastering a good technique. You can find this out yourself, as long as you are observant, focus on continual improvement and not settling for second best.
At all costs keep things tidy as you work. For short lengths of pipe I dip the end in the flux tub and rotate it, making sure I only coat the outside of the pipe. For longer lengths I get some flux on piece of toilet paper and wipe that on the pipe, using the paper just once. Keep the discarded paper in a bag and away from naked flame.
The main focus of attention should be complete and even coverage of the pipe end to the depth of the solder ring fitting, and the avoidance of dust or grit. Clearly the flux paste can easily pick up dirt, and the main consequence is that the pipe becomes a tight fit in the fitting, to the extent that it wont go all the way home.
As a precaution it is worth making a mark on the pipe where the fitting comes up to when the pipe is fully home, as this will provide a quick visual check right up to the point when the solder is cooling after making the joint.
Ideally use a blowtorch with a deadman trigger, so if you are working in a very tight situation where you might bump into something and knock it from you hand, or somewhere where you might drop the torch in an inaccessible location it will extinguish as soon as it leaves you hand.
Tuesday 4 September 2012
About Luton
The first TV relay tower in Luton
(As detailed in a BBC 1974 publication)
(As detailed in a BBC 1974 publication)
Luton
Channels: BBC-I 55; BBC2 62; IBA 59; fourth programme 65
Receiving aerial group: C/D Mean height of transmitting aerial: 154 feet
Transmitter site: Winsdon Hill, on the southwestern outskirts of Luton
Max. erp: 0.12 kW Polarization: vertical
(47m) agl, 670 feet (204m) aod
National Grid Reference: TL 081210
The service area includes almost the whole of those parts of Luton in which the service from Crystal Palace orSandy Heath is unsatisfactory
Getting your point over
OK, here goes...
A big bug bear with me is the frustration I experience at times when trying to explain something, and not being able to communicate effectively.
No matter how hard I try, when I focus on testing understanding, I tend to cause aggravation in the listener, which in turn frustrates me even more.
I try to be relaxed and informal about it, as to be too intense can cause resentment. But on the other hand, treating a serious subject in light vein is probably not appropriate.
Hopefully this blog will expose the difficulties and thereby be part of the solution.
Hopefully this blog will expose the difficulties and thereby be part of the solution.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)